![]() Now measure from your plate to the floor. (for knives belly button height would be probably be good). (paint cans, milk crates, books, whatever you have until you get the top of the anvil to thework height you want. ![]() If you can do it safely, heat the metal, (both pieces) in your kitchen oven to 350 for an hour. Make at least 3 passes, five would be better. Stand the rail in the center of the plate and weld it with the 7018. If that circular piece of plate is hardenable, or even if it isn't, would it make an ok face for a rail anvil? Would my welding setup suffice?ĭrill 3 holes in the circumference of the plate, 3/8" if you can, 1/2" would be better. No shielding gas, just flux core wire right now. I also have a 110v MIG welder, a little portable one. I have a stick welder and an assortment of 25-year old rod, the only kind that's still sealed (and probably usable) is 7018. I'm not sure if it's hardenable, hopefully it is, but I'll test it with a file tomorrow and see what that does. I thought I might be able to use it for the face of a vertical rail anvil, though. It was one of the many things I picked up as small stock for making. It's maybe 5/8" thick and about 4" in diameter, weighs a couple pounds. So, I picked up a small, round piece of plate. I made it so tall so that I could fill it with sand (I have hard-packing clay on hand, is that a comparable alternative?) and bury most of the anvil in it. I tested the rebound both horizontally and vertically and horizontally definitely won out. When I bought it, I was planning on using it vertically because all I've read on them is that they work worlds better that way than horizontally. ![]() I have a piece of rail, the small kind on the small side, about 18" long.
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